Tourism must tap into water issue

Water being brought in tankers to villages in Kerala
Water being brought in tankers to villages in Kerala

Water is a human right. In July this year, the United Nations declared that “Safe and clean drinking water and sanitation is a human right essential to the full enjoyment of life and all other human rights”. Not something most of us want to think about on holiday, really. However, with water so very central to tourism, and tourism so very central to world economies, the two are inextricably linked.

Indeed, our water footprint as tourists is something that we will be hearing more and more about as temperatures continue to rise around the world. Especially in those winter sun destinations we all crave. Here are some of the unfathomable facts:1.1 billion people worldwide have no access to clean water; 1.4 million children die each year because of unsafe water; in parts of Asia and Africa, women carry water weighing as much as your carry on luggage on their heads ever day just for basic needs. And the hardest fact for holiday makers to face is that this is often happening just a few kilometres away from a tourism resort with shimmering infinity pools sourced from precious ground water.

The Stockholm International Water Institute (siwi.org) states that “The world’s water crisis is not related to the physical availability of water, but to unbalanced power relations, poverty and related inequalities”. Leading sustainable tourism charity, Tourism Concern agrees, lobbying for an end to water inequity, and highlighting problem areas. Such as Kovalam, Kerala, in southern Indian which, like so many in Kerala and Tamil Nadu, was transformed from quiet fishing village to uncontrolled tourism building site within a couple of decades. As tourism became on trend, fishing families were forced to leave not only so they could find beaches where they could fish freely, but also to find new homes. This displacement was left unmanaged, leading to an excess of pit latrines in their new villages, which contaminate already short supplies of ground water. Ground water which gently sprinkles neighbouring golf courses.

Daily drinking water is now brought to these villages by privately run tankers which local people have to buy. The same goes for tourism destinations in Africa, The Caribbean, Mexico, to name but a few, but also closer to home, such as Greece, Malta and Spain, where water has been shipped in containers in recent years to supplement supplies. In Bali, a tourist can use between 750-1500 litres of water a day, depending on how many pools, golf courses and gardens there are on offer, or how many showers are had by each individual. Down the road, however, women are still walking several kilometres every day to get one bucketful of water for their families.

Providing water for the world is central to all the Millenium Development Goals which are to be met by international leaders by 2015 (un.org/millenniumgoals). However, beyond a ‘polite request’ to save bathroom towels, or a low pressure flush in the loo, I don’t see many of tourism’s leaders taking serious action to deal with this crisis. There is plenty that we can do on our travels to limit water use, but understanding the issues is a good starting point, and making your tour operator aware that you are concerned about them is another. If you see villagers carrying buckets of water, then raise it at management level not just at the hotel reception. Often businesses do nothing until their clients start to shout about it. And sadly, many governments do nothing until international companies start shouting too, in response to their clients’ demands.

You can also choose a tour operator which has a clearly defined responsible tourism policy, but this is not just an issue just for ecotourism specialists anymore. The mass tourism industry needs to act and we are all part of that mass. If you are travelling independently, however, it is worthwhile referring to Tourism Concern’s Ethical Travel Guide (tourismconcern.org.uk) as they work closely with community-run organisations worldwide, such as Kabani (kabani.org) in Kerala which are switched on to the problems.

Saving water on holiday is not just the right thing to do; it is supporting a human right. When the United Nations launched an International Decade for Action called “Water for Life 2005-2015“ the former UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan said. “This is an urgent matter for human development and human dignity. Together we can provide safe, clean water to all the world’s people……together we must manage them better”.
An edited version of this article, by Catherine Mack, was first published in The Irish Times, 11 September 2010

From ferry to Fforest

Geodesic domes at Fforest campsite, Wales
Geodesic domes at Fforest campsite, Wales

A campsite where there are just a few tents in a luscious meadow, no cars, a breakfast buffet, and a shebeen onsite is a rare thing. Even rarer, it does not involve an overnight ferry crossing, just a two hour crossing from Rosslare to Fishguard (stenaline.ie). From here, a thirty kilometres drive, taxi or indeed cycle, will take you through the gates of Fforest, one of the UK’s coolest campsites. It is just outside the village of Cilgerran, in the heart of Wales’ beach and beauty-filled Pembrokeshire.

And it keeps getting better, as all tents and equipment are provided at Fforest. These are no ordinary tents either, with a choice of very funky, cream canvas geodesic dome tents,  tipis, bell tents and a more basic tunnel tent, known as the Nomad. All have wood-burning stoves except the Nomad which has, however,  like all Fforest’s accommodation, the inspired touch of reindeer hides to keep you toasty, or gorgeous Welsh woollen blankets if skins don’ t do it for you. You need to bring sleeping bags and towels, however, although a double duvet is provided in the dome tent. All tents are positioned on raised wooden bases to keep damp at bay, and adjoining kitchens are covered and fully equipped.  Even the shower blocks and loos are beautifully designed using green oak, larch and cedar, and effluent is channelled to a reed bed filtration system.

We opted for Fforest’s latest development, the Crogloft, which was originally a stone barn, and now home to those who love the outdoors but can’t do canvas. I love canvas but it was April, so we chickened out, and opted for solid walls and doors. The four croglofts are equally stylish, with cabin beds for the children and mezzanine bed for us, all draped with Fforest blankets, and a sofa bedecked with another reindeer. And the luxurious wetrooms are heaven for those who just hate to wade through nature when nature calls. You still get the camping vibe in the crogloft, however,

Canoeing on the River Teifi at Fforest campsite
Canoeing on the River Teifi at Fforest campsite

because the kitchen areas are outside, albeit covered from the elements, but in full view of the meadows, moon and stars.

Despite the cosiness of the croglofts, I must admit I still pined for canvas, wood burning stoves and fresh air. I got my daily fix of wood-burning in the woodland sauna, which is in a cedar barrel, heated by a wood stove, with a shower round the back for cooling down moments. The kids were delighted as they got to come in too, usually a health and safety no-no in conventional spas. But then most conventional spas don’t have a field full of buttercups to run through afterwards either.

The space at Fforest is impressive. There are only a handful of tents in each field, each one strategically positioned for privacy. There are just enough people in each field to be sociable, but you never feel crowded out. Just head to the main wooden lodge for the real social scene, where a delicious breakfast buffet is served every day, with endless pots of good coffee on the go, home made breads, eggs and fresh local produce such as  jams and honey. I loved the communal breakfast as it gave everyone a focus for the day, whereas we never seem to get going before about midday on normal campsites.

Activities abound at Fforest, although you could easily come here and just do nothing. However, I highly recommend taking the canoe trip down the river as well as the woodland creations sessions, when the boys made pencils out of green hazel wood, freshly cut in the forest, and necklaces out of elder. All those bushcraft things they love and which I get overly neurotic about like lighting fires, sawing wood and playing with penknives.

Chillin' as the sun goes down over Fforest
Chillin' as the sun goes down over Fforest

Fforest owners James Lynch and Sian Tucker have pulled off something special here. Although stylish and sustainable, they have avoided the current trend for designed-to-death campsites which kill the very thing we all want from the outdoors. Spontaneity, fun and nature. And plenty of dirt under the fingernails. As a result, the clientele is more green wellies than pink,  choosing local cider over chardonnay. What they need now to add to the fun is just a few more Paddies.

For more details on Fforest see coldatnight.co.uk, 00-44 (0) 1239 623633

An edited version of this article was first published in The Irish Times, 17 July 2010

Arts and crafts holidays in Ireland

Alison Ospina's green wood chairs
Alison Ospina's green wood chairs

I was lazily musing over my St. Patrick’s Day break, (traditionally a long walk, and a get together with good friends and a few pints), when an invitation to a knitting weekend landed on my doormat.  I felt as if middle age had just jumped up and grabbed me by the throat. What happened? I had gone to bed an active hiking, biking desperately trying-to-stay-young sort of a girl, and woken up as my granny. However, I kept reading and, to my surprise, I found myself falling into a world of comforting quilts, rocking chairs, herbal teas and, of course, beautiful works of art.

Knitting is really not really my thing, however, but the more I delved into the arts and crafts cupboard of holidays out there, the more I wanted to experience their comfort zones. Weaving, I confess, has always fascinated me, and I have met a few weavers on my travels.  Beth Moran, for example, at Ballytoughey Loom on Clare Island is one of Ireland’s most gifted, and from May to September she hosts weaving, spinning and natural dyeing weekend and week long workshops. I can’t think of a better teacher, not just because of her skills, but also as a warm hostess to anyone wanting to experience this stunning island and its culture for a few days .

Competing for top place on my wish list is a three day break learning to make a chair from scratch. Alison Ospina, the founder of Green Wood Chairs in Skibbereen creates pure works of art, or furniture, from ‘green’ or unseasoned Hazel which is coppiced in West Cork.  Also in West Cork, the Kinsale Pottery and Arts Centre offers a plethora of courses including jewellery making, stained glass and, of course, pottery. Weekend craft packages are from €220 including b&b and one dinner. Some for children, others for adults, and even some for ‘hens’.  They also work in conjunction with Ballymaloe House, where they lay on an introductory pottery course, one night’s b&b,  and five course dinner for €299

In the Burren, you can take a weekend transposing the exquisite light which bounces off the karst limestone into watercolour at the Burren Painting Centre. From the end of April, it runs various workshop weekends, from €205 for two nights B&B, 1 dinner, and two days painting tuition.

For something a bit more earthy, head to County Clare for a ‘Weekend in the Woods’, where the Celt Centre has

Kinsale Pottery Centre: Hen pottery party
Kinsale Pottery Centre: Hen pottery party

workshops in traditional skills of felting, leatherwork, dry stone walling, coppercraft and silversmithing.  Camp there for free, or stay at one of several recommended hotels or b&b’s.

Wordsmithing is also considered by many as a fine traditional Irish craft, and if you want to combine this with a love of travel, head to Lismore, County Waterford, in June for Immrama Festival of Travel Writing. Or for poetry in paradise, (my description not theirs – as  I adore this place) Cnoc Suain in the hills overlooking Spiddal’s coastline has a residential poetry weekend with poets Kevin Siggins and Lorna Shaughnessy (28-30 May and 13-15 August.

Last but not least is the Leitrim Sculpture Centre, Manorhamilton’s magnet for artistic brilliance. Two day courses include wood carving and contemporary print making, as well as the uniquely Irish stone letter cutting course, 17 & 18 April . Book  nearby eco-havens Tawnylust Lodge or Ard Nahoo, beautiful eco-creations in their own right.

An edited version of this article was published in The Irish Times, 13 March 2010

Trinity Island Lodge, County Cavan, Ireland

trinity-island-lodge-04
Trinity Island Lodge, County Cavan.

No one is going to choose a place to stay simply because it has solar panels or a compost loo. Although I must admit, I have a bizarre interest in the pros, cons, and inner workings of the latter, which amuses my children no end. However, when you visit a place and realise that the owner has, often against the odds, created an eco-dream, and wants nothing more than for you to lie back and enjoy its natural wonders (and I don’t just mean the loo), then they are worth shouting about. Which his why I am starting to feature some personal favourites in this column, and introduce you to some of the people responsible for giving us great green getaways.

A weekend break in County Cavan is not usually in the top ten of tourist trails. But, with all the attention Cork has been getting from Lonely Planet recently, I thought it was time this lowly Ethical Traveller gave County Cavan its moment in the limelight. If you are lucky enough to stay at Trinity Island Lodge, in Killeshandra, County Cavan, make it more than a moment though. As this is pure, peaceful eco-escapism and worth a few days of your well earned time away.

Up until recently this converted barn, on its own forested island just seconds’ walk from the shores of Lough Oughter, was a fisherman’s haven. And hardly surprising, as you can almost fall out of bed into your boat in the morning. But the owner, Tom O’Dowd, has always been a committed conservationist and environmentally aware, and he is keen to start sharing it with visitors who are interested in the other aspects of the ecosystem. Not just fish.

The remote Lodge has a windmill and solar panels to generate electricity, and Tom has replanted 200 acres with indigenous broadleaf Oaks, Ash and Larch. During a walking tour of the island, he tantalised all our senses. Whispering

Overlooking Lough Oughter. Photo: Catherine Mack
Overlooking Lough Oughter. Photo: Catherine Mack

, he gently guided the children to badger sets; he then led us to scented corridors of wild garlic, and stopped us in our tracks to let the sounds of Teale and Widgeon out on the lake take centre stage. For my kids, however, Tom was the star of Trinity Island, as he showed them how to chop wood, paddle the Canadian canoe he provides for guests, and regaled them with legends of the monks who built the Island’s ruined abbey in 1237, which Tom has lovingly protected from total collapse.

However, Tom will admit that it is The Lough which deserves all the praise here. The Lodge, albeit with slightly dated décor, is cleverly designed with the living area upstairs, leading out to balconies to allow maximum enjoyment of the views. Shopping by canoe has to be one of the highlights of the stay, just a five kilometre paddle into Killeshandra for supplies. Or for a daytrip, take the five hour canoe trip into Belturbet, with a picnic stop-off at Lough Oughter castle. Tom, host extraordinaire, generously offers to collect visitors there after a hard day’s canoeing and drive you back to base. Whatever waychoose to enjoy the Lough, we found plenty of excuses to warm up in the wood-burning sauna at the end of the day. So, for all those ‘noughty’ fishermen out there, who have been trying to keep this place to themselves, watch out, because the ‘greeny teenies’ are on the case, and moving in.

trinity-island-lodge-072Go green: Take a bus to Cavan (hourly) and taxi 20km to Killeshandra, where Tom will meet you to take you to the Island. trinityisland.com

This article was first published in The Irish Times, 27 February 2010